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Make You Own Sofa Sewing Caddy

sewing caddy for a sofa.

The perfect accessory for anyone who loves to craft, whether it be, sewing, quilting, knitting or needlecraft, this is must have. Ideal if you like crafting whilst watching TV.

This tutorial has been specially created by Michelle at CreativeBlonde

Handcrafted pockets, pincushion and thread catcher for a sewing caddy.

The great thing about this sewing caddy, is all the parts are removable, which makes it easy to interchange pockets, depending on the craft you are working on. Plus, it makes emptying the thread catcher, so much easier.

Materials – All fabrics are available to buy in our online store.
Fat Quarter bundle of ‘Garden at Dusk’ by Overdale Fabrics
Half meter of ‘flower Stalks’ by Dashwood Studios available at Overdale Fabrics
Gutermann thread colour 660
Half meter of H640 fusible wadding by Vilieseline
4” square of Vilene light weight interlining
Few handfuls of ‘toy’ stuffing for the pin cushion

Haberdashery Items
Iron-away marker pen
10” and 7” circle template
4” circle template
Quilters ruler, rotary cutter/scissors
2x 1” wooden buttons
½” wooden heart button

The Main Mat

From the ‘flower stalks’ cut 2 pieces measuring 22” x 10”. Use a 10” circle template to curve each end (I used a dinner plate – worked a treat). Lay one piece onto of the wadding, and cut to size. Fuse wadding to 1 of the fabric pieces.

Quilting the sewing caddy mat.

Using your heat erasable marker and ruler, draw quilting lines, 2” apart. Quilt along these lines using Gutermann thread colour 660. Press to remove marked lines.

Polka dot bias binding for a sewing caddy.

To make the binding, take the fat quarter of grey with white polka dots, and cut 1 ¼” strips along the bias. Join these strips together to create a 65” strip. Press in half, open out and press each half to the centre.

Polka dot edging.

Sew to your main mat.

Pink and grey sewing caddy mat.


The Pin Cushion

Fabrics for sewing a patchwork pincushion.

Cut Four 4.5” squares from ‘Dusk Daisies’ (brown with white flowers).
Cut Four 4.5” squares from ‘Gleeful Seedheads’ (mustard with white flowers).

Patchwork panel for a pin cushion.
Sew these quarters togethers, using ¼” seam allowance, press seam open.

Making a round pin cushion.

Draw a 7” circle on the reverse of both squares.

Place fabrics right sides together and sew a circle ¼” larger, using the Gutermann thread colour 660, leaving a 2-3” gap for turning the pin cushion right side out.

Fill with toy stuffing, hand sew up the gap with a simple ladder stitch.

Circular pin cushion for an arm chair caddy.

Sew the small heart button to the centre of the cushion, pulling tight in the centre, and sew through to the main mat (8” from one end).


The Thread Catcher

Cut 2 pieces measuring 4”x 12.5” from ‘Butterfly Flower Garden’.
Cut a piece of wadding 3.5” x 12” and fuse to one of the above pieces of fabric.
Cut 2 pieces measuring 6.5” x 12.5” from ‘Gleeful Seedheads’.
Cut 2 pieces measuring 3.5” x 12.5” from ‘Dusk Daisies’.

Fabrics for making a thread catcher.

Sew the ‘Gleeful Seedheads’ and ‘Dusk Daisies’ pieces together, to create 2 pieces of fabric both measuring 9.5” x 12.5”.
Cut a piece of wadding measuring 9” x 12” and fuse to one of the above pieces.

Create 13” of binding as before, add to the top of the 2 pieces of ‘Butterfly Flower Garden’, with wadding sandwiched between. Mark the pockets at 3” intervals, excluding the seam allowance. Sew along these lines.

From the grey polka dot fabric, cut two 4” circles, and one 3 ¾” circle form the wadding. Fuse the wadding to one of the circles (note the wadding is ¼” smaller from all measurements, to avoid added bulk when sewing together).

Creating a thread catcher for a sewing caddy.

Create a 5” piece of binding as before, and sew along the length of it, add it to the top of the ‘Dusk Daisies’, in a loop.

With right sides together and the loop caught between the two pieces, sew the tops of the ‘Dusk Daisies’ fabrics together, press seams open (one piece will have the wadding attached, the other will be just the fabric).

Add the circle with the wadding, and right sides together to the bottom of the ‘Gleeful Seedheads’ piece with wadding.
Repeat this process for the circle fabric on the opposite end.

Making a sewing caddy thread catcher.

Sew the long edge together using ¼” seam allowance, leaving a 3” gap to pull it the right way out. Once pulled through (my favourite part) sew up the gap.


The Pocket with Scissor Attachment

Create a 20” strip of binding, and sew along the edge as before, thread this through the handle of some sewing scissors.
Cut two 7” squares from the ‘Flower Stalks’ fabric (pink with white stems).
Cut 7” square from the wadding, and fuse to one piece of the above cut fabric.
Cut two 7”x 5” pieces from the ‘Dusk Daisies’ fabric.
Cut a 7”x5” piece of wadding, and fuse to one of the ‘Dusk Daisies’ pieces cut above.

To create the Butterfly applique, cut around the butterfly with ¼” extra all the way round, fuse to the 4” square of interlining, once fused. Carefully cut around the butterfly 1/8” bigger than the pattern. Blanket stitch using Gutermann thread 660, around the butterfly either my machine or hand, to the ‘Dusk Daisies’ fabric.

Add binding to the top of the pocket as before.

Fabrics for making the sewing caddy pockets.

Mark and sew a pocket, by sewing a line of stitches alongside the butterfly.

Detachable sewing caddy pocket decorated with a butterfly.

Lay the ‘Dusk Daisies’ piece on top of the ‘Flower Stalks’, lining it up along the bottom edge, add in your scissors on the length of binding, and a 5” loop at the top (as before on the thread catcher) and add binding all the way around the ‘Flower Stalks’ fabric – see photos for placement.

Lined sofa caddy pockets.

This can now be attached to your main mat, by adding a button. Position the main mat on the arm of the sofa, to find the best position for the button.

Sewing caddy on the arm of a sofa.

Your sofa caddy is complete.

Sofa caddy with detachable pockets and thread catcher.

Thanks for reading, happy sewing from Michelle at Creative Blonde You can also connect with Michelle on her instagram @creativeblonde66

You can download you free PDF pattern here.


Make Your Own Patchwork Handbag

Patchwork handbag in blue and peach.


2 main bag panels 30cm by 26cm. To create the panels I’ve used a set of fat quarters ‘Bountiful in Blue’ and a piece of navy polka dot canvas to make two patchwork panels using 6.5cm squares.
2 pieces of interning, I used H640 fusible interfacing by Fliseline (size as above)
2 main bag – lining panels, I’ve used the fat quarter ‘Bountiful Leaf’ – peach 30cm by 25cm
2 inside top panels –I’ve used ‘Bountiful Meadow’ 30cm by 6cm and a piece of interfacing 28cm by 4cm
2 handle straps to coordinate I’ve used the ‘Blue Polka Canvas’ 56cm by 8cm
Coordinating cotton thread
1 magnetic clasp
Bag base reinforcer 20cm by 8cm

All seam allowances are 1cm unless stated otherwise.

Handbag straps and inside flaps ready to sew.

Bag Handles

Make the two bag handles by following my tutorial – Easy Bag Handles

Inside Flap

To make the inside flaps, place your fabric panel piece the wrong side up and lay the interfacing in the centre of the panel with the top edges matching. Iron in place

Fold a 1cm bottom hem up and stitch in place.

Repeat for the other flap panel.

Attaching handle straps to a handmade bag.

Main Bag Panels

Iron your interling onto on the wrong side of both quilted bag panels. I’ve also done some stitching in the ditch really just for decorative purposes.

Turn right side up and position your handles, I’ve positioned mine with 1cm overhang past the top edge. Pin in place.

Repeat for the other panel.

Attaching the internal flap of a handbag.

Lay the inside top panel flap on top of your bag panel with right sides together and match up the top edges. Pin everything in place.

Sew along the top edge and repeat for the other panel.

Cutting away bulky interfacing from a seam.

Trim back interfacing as you don’t want this seam to be too bulky.

Repeat for the other panel.

Two bag panels ready to be sewn to make a handbag.

You now have your front and bag main bag panels with handles and inside flaps attached.

If you want to add a magnetic clasp to your bag, now is the time to insert one onto your inside flaps before the bag is sewn together. Just follow my instructions in my tutorial – Magnetic Bag Clasps

Cutting fabric to create box corners on a bag.

To make your bag base cut a 4 by 4cm square from the bottom two corners on each bag panel.

Sewing pieces to make a bag.

Place bag panels together with right sides facing and the flaps laid open. Sew along the two sides and bottom edge.

Sewing box corners on a handbag.

Open out your corners line up the edges and seams. Stitch together with a 1cm seam to create your bag corners and base.

Inserting a bag base.

Bag Lining

Turn right side out and fold down your internal flap and clip in place along the top edge. Insert bag bottom if you are using one, you don’t have to.

Sewing lining for a handmade bag.

To make the lining, cut out the 4cm by 4cm squares on each bottom corner. Place with right sides together sew along both sides and the bottom. Sew your corners just like you have for the main bag.

Adding lining to a hand crafted handbag.

Place your lining inside your bag making sure you tuck it under your internal bag flap. Pin in place. Sew along the bottom edge of your internal flap so that everything is held in place.

A handmade patchwork handbag.

That’s it you now have a great new patchwork handbag.


How to Sew a Lined Tote Bag with Front Pockets

Tote bag with front pockets.

2 main bag panels, I used ‘Gleeful Seedheads’ – lime green 44cm by 36cm
2 pieces of interning, I used H640 fusible interfacing by Fliseline (size as above)
2 main bag – lining panels, I’ve used ‘Gleeful Flower Garden’ – grey 38cm by 36cm
4 pocket panels, I’ve used 2 ‘Gleeful Flower’ and for the lining 2 ‘Gleeful Flower Garden’ – grey 25cm by 36cm
2 handle strap to coordinate I’ve used the ‘Gleeful Flower Garden’ – grey 112cm by 8cm
Coordinating cotton thread
1 magnetic clasp (a small piece of interlining if you are not interlining your bag).

All seam allowances are 1 cm

Materials needed to make a tote bog with a magnetic clasp.


Creating the Main Bag Panels

Top hem for a tote bag.

Iron on your interfacing to the wrong side of both main bag panels. I cut my interfacing 1cm shorter on all sides so that it doesn’t make the seams too bulky.

Turn over a 1cm hem on the top of your panel and stitch in place. Then turn down 4cm and iron to create your top bag edge and an internal flap.

Positioning the magnetic clasp on a tote bag opening.

Find the centre point of your bag panel and the centre point of your internal flap, line up the magnet clasp and mark with a soluble pen. Do the same on the other panel.

If you are not adding interlining to your bag, now add a small patch of interlining onto the wrong side of your fabric where the magnetic clasp is going to be inserted. This helps to reinforce it as the magnetic clasps can tear at the fabric.

Making holes to insert a magnetic clasp.

Use a seam ripper to make a hole trough the fabric and interlining on the right and left markers ready for the clasp prongs. Do the same on the other panel.

Fitting the back plate of a magnetic bag clasp.

Push the clasp prongs through from the right side of the fabric and secure on the wrong side with the back plate. Finish by flattening the prongs outwards. Repeat for the other panel.

Fold the flaps back down.

Magnet bag clasps on a tote bag.

Creating the Pockets

Creating pockets with lining.

Take 1 outer pocket fabric and 1 pocket lining fabric and place right sides together. Sew together along the top edge with a 1cm seam allowance.

Repeat for the other pocket.

Front pockets for a tote bag.

Turn right sides out and press. Top stitch along the top edge.

Repeat for the other pocket.

Creating the Bag Straps

Ironing hems in place for bag straps.

Fold the strap in half longways, press with an iron. Open it out and then fold both raw edges into to the pressed centre line leaving a small gap. Fold in the two ends.

Top stitching bag handles.

Fold the strap back in half and top stitch them together.

Repeat for the other strap.

Attaching bag handles to a tote bag.

Lay your bag panel flat with your clasp flap opened out.

Place the straps equal distances apart on the top of your bag panel. Make sure that the ends down far enough so that they will be concealed into the pocket and your straps are a length that you like.

Pin in place and then top stitch onto your bag panel making sure that you do not sew the handle onto your inside flap. Just sew to the top of the front bag panel.

Repeat on your other bag panel.

Constructing the Tote Bag

Making a tote bag with front pockets.

Lay your pocket panel in place and sew a line of stitching in the centre from the base of the bag to the top of the pocket to create two pockets. Repeat for the other panel.

Sewing a tote bag.

Place right sides together and sew down along one side across the bottom and up the other side joining your two panels together.
Turn right sides out.

Lining for a tote bag.

Place your 2 bag lining panels with right sides together and sew down along one side across the bottom and up the other side with a 1 cm seam. This will join your two panels together.

Turn right sides out

Inserting lining into a tote bag.

Place your lining into your bag and fold down the clasp flaps by 4cm.

Pin in place and sew along the bottom edge of the flap.

Your bag is now complete just press with an iron and enjoy.


Quilted Patchwork Panel Cushion – Tutorial

Tutorial for a patchwork cushion cover.

For this tutorial you will need:

One 6 fat quarter pack.

Use 4 of the fat quarter fabric pieces to cut out:
49 x 2½ ” squares
4 x 2½ ” strips for the cushion cover
1 x 2½ ” strips for the bias binding

Use 2 fat quarter fabric pieces to make:
a 17″ by 12″ piece and a 17″ by 8″ piece of fabric for the back cover.

You will also need:
17″ square of wadding (batting)
Coordinating sewing thread
1 button
16″ cushion pad

Making the Front Panel for Your Cushion Cover

Jelly strips and charm squares for a patchwork panel.

Start by cutting all the fabrics as detailed above.
All seams are using a 1 cm seam allowance.

Arranging fabric squares for a quilted panel.

Once you have cut all of your squares start by laying out your design.
Sew all your pieces together into rows.
Then sew all the rows together. Making one large central square.
Finish off your panel with four strips around the outer edge.

Backing quilted panel with wadding.

Place the finished panel on top of the wadding and pin into place.

Top stitching on a quilted panel.

Use top stitching to secure your panel onto the wadding. I’ve use the technique of stitching in the ditch.

A quilted panel for a cushion cover.

Trim back the wadding to the same size as your top panel.

You now have your front panel.

Making the Back Panel for Your Cushion Cover

Making bias binding.

Using one of the 2 ½” fabric strips make it into a piece of bias binding. If you need help with this refer back to my previous tutorial “How to Make Bias Binding”.

Making a buttonhole for the back of a cushion cover.

Take your 17” by 8” piece of fabric and secure the bias binding onto one of the longest edge.
Make a buttonhole in the centre about 1” above the binding edge.

Making an envelope opening for the back of a cushion cover. Hem your 17” by 12” piece of fabric along the long edge.
Lay flat and place the smaller panel with the bias binding over the larger panel at the hem edge with a 3 ½ “ overlap.
Pin in place.

Sewing the cushion cover panels together.

Take your finished top panel and place it on top of the backing panel with right sides together and pin in place.

Hem all around the outer edge and trim off the excess.

Turn right side out through the back flap.
Press well and all you have left to do is sew your button in place and insert your cushion pad.

Quilted patchwork cushion cover.

Back of a cushion cover with an envelope opening and button detailing.

It would be lovely to see your makes using this tutorial, please join us on Instagram and tag us in with #overdalefabrics.


Handcrafted Laptop Sleeve Bag

hand sewn laptop sleeve bagI’ve just spent a hugely enjoyable Saturday sewing a laptop sleeve bag for my 15 inch Acer. It is rare that I get the majority of day to myself so it was so nice to just immerse myself in this sewing project.

I wanted to create a stylish laptop sleeve with flowing curves, and a zip that extended down the sides.  I’m quite pleased with the results as it is a first attempt and I didn’t follow a pattern.

The material is 100% cotton on both the outside and inside, with designs from Dashwood Studios. The zip is a 20 inch YKK that I bought on Amazon.

laptop bag that I sewed using 100% cotton fabricBut the real secret to why this project was successful is the stabilising foam that goes between the cotton fabric layers.  I used Bosal In-R-Form fusible, which is available on our website.  This gives structure to the completed sleeve and soft protection to the laptop.

Being fusible on both sides, you simply need to iron the stabilising foam between your fabrics to activate the glue and fix it in place.

lining of my laptop sleeve bagI was pleased that I took the time to use a patterned fabric on the inside, as this adds a real personal touch to the finished product.

With the Christmas / Holiday season approaching, this could be a nice project to complete for the ‘difficult-to-buy-for’ man in your life. Certainly beats socks!

the finished product. my laptop sleeve that I sewed without a pattern


New Fabrics for Christmas 2016

Now September is here, many people start to think about back to school, harvest festival and…..Christmas! If you’re thinking of making items to sell at Christmas fayres, or just want a fun festive project to make at home, check out our new range of Christmas fabrics.

Scandi Woodland Christmas

Celebrate Christmas with these friendly woodland animals including stags, foxes and squirrels.  Comes in shades of red and silver/grey.

Scandi Woodland Christmas fabric

Scandi Christmas Red

Classic designs in red on a natural cotton background.  This cotton is unbleached giving a really nice vintage feel to the fabrics, perfect for a range of different projects.

scandi christmas fabric red

Scandi Christmas Grey

As with the Scandi Christmas Red range, these fabrics have an unbleached, natural background that is off-white.

scandi christmas grey

Stockings and Advent Calendar Kits

Want to get in the festive spirit without all the fuss of finding the right materials? Our Advent Calendar and Chritsmas Stocking kits have all that you need to make a fun Christmas project – even includes colour coordinated thread!

christmas sewing kits


Handmade Summer Handbag

Hand crafted canvas handbag with a feature patchwork panel.

A friend asked me to make her a handbag and I thought I would create a new pattern with a patchwork panel. Whilst I was making her’s I decided to make one for myself at the same time!

I started by creating the patchwork bag panel out of the fabrics in our ‘Fox in the Forest’ fat quarter collection. I simply cut two 2.5 inch strips of all six fabrics and created a panel.

Patchwork panel using fabrics from the fox in the forest fat quarter collection.

I then teamed this with our aqua spot cotton canvas. I love using canvas for bags. It’s a great fabric as it’s hard wearing and gives the bag a really quality finish.

For the interlining I’ve used the Bosal fusible In-R-Foam to give the bag a really great rigid flexible shape. This is my favourite interlining as it transforms the bag. You can see in my photo how it turns the bag into great sturdy shape that will stand up when you put it down (the bag above has the interlining and the droopy bag below doesn’t!).

Using Bosal fusible In-R-Foam to create a sturdy bag shape.

For the lining I used the left over fabric from the ‘Fox in the Forest’ pack, I love adding prints to the lining as it gives the bag a really fun look.

Colourful printed fabric for the bag lining.

I hope you like my new summer handbag. If you want to use any of the fabrics or interlinings used in this blog post then just follow the links and they will take you to the relevant items in our online store.


New Fat Quarter Bundles – Summer 2016

We’re delighted to let you know about the latest Fat Quarter bundles available.  Fox in the Forest and A Walk in the Park both include contemporary designs from Dashwood Fabrics. Ideal for crafting, quilting or home furnishings, these fabrics will make an ideal addition to anyone’s stash.

Fox in the Forest

This bundle includes the following 6 beautiful designs: wildwood, candy stripes, forest leaf, leaping foxes, mint green polkadot and aqua blue daisy.  I love the vibrant colours that this pack has.

fox in the forest fat quarters bundle

fox in the forest fabric bundle


A Walk in the Park

This bundle includes fabrics with shades of mustard, grey, charcoal, deep rose and beige.  The 6 designs are: bertie dachshund, cotton cloud trees, miniature flowers (grey), deep rose polkadot, mustard flowers and beige ticking. The bertie dachshund design has been a really popular design this year and you’ll see it frequently on Instagram and Pinterest.

a walk in the park fabric bundle

a walk in the park fat quarters bundle


How to Make Table Placemats Using Jelly Rolls and Bonsal Fusible Foam



How to make quilted placemats.

For this tutorial you will need:
One 18” by 13.5” piece of Bosal fusible In-R-Foam
Four jelly roll strips of complimentary fabric designs.
One 12” by 13.5” rectangle of fabric that looks good with your jelly roll fabrics.
One 18” by 13.5” fabric for the reverse.
Complimentary fabric for your bias binding.

To make one large placemat.


Materials you need to make placemats.

Choose your jelly roll strips (I chose the yellow and blue designs from our ‘Petite Fleur’ collection) and cut them into 6.5” pieces. I cut two each of three of the deigns and 1 of another giving me seven pieces in total.

Arrange them and then sew together vertically with a 1 cm seam.

Iron seams flat.

Side panel of the placemat made from jelly roll fabric.

Take the piece that you have just made and the other front panel fabric (I used our ‘Stitch Leaf Autumn’ fabric) place them right sides together and sew along one of the short sides with a 1 cm seam.

Iron seams flat.

Quilted front of the placemat.

Pin your backing fabric (I’ve used ‘Wild Flower’ blue fabric) right side up to one side of the Bonsal fusible foam. Turn over and place your front panel the other side.

Daisy fabric for the back of the placemat.

To fuse the foam and fabrics I lightly iron both sides to make sure everything is in place.

Fusing the fabric with an iron to form the placemat.

Then remove the pins and iron over both sides again, but this time moving the iron slowly so that the fabric fuses securely to the foam.

Front and back fabrics for the placemats.

You can now add decorative top stitching if you want to. I’ve stitched in the ditch for the front side panel and then top stitched vertical lines on the leaf fabric.

Make your bias binding tape by following the instructions in my previous tutorial “How to make a Continuous Length of Bias Binding”. I’ve used our plain “Turquoise Blue” fabric to make the bias binding as it matches perfectly.


Finally all you have to do is add the bias binding to the outer edge of your placemat. I start on one of the short sides as the join is less noticeable here. Attach the binding with wonder clips if you have them (pins if not) and sew down the first length, create a mitre corner and then repeat down the long side and continue until you have sewn the all the way around your placemat.

Attaching the bias binding around the edges of the placemats.

That’s it you now have your first placemat. You can now repeat it for a whole set of four, six or just two.

Placemats created with Bonsal fusible foam.


How to Make a Decorative Fabric Basket.

Fabric basket filled with cotton reels.

You will need: two pieces of complimentary fabric. I’ve used our ‘Beige Polka Dot’ cotton canvas, ‘Summer Meadow Pink’ cotton fabric, and a piece of Bosal In-R-Foam fusible foam stabilizer (all available in our online shop). Coordinating thread and use of a sewing machine and iron.

Start by deciding how big you want your basket to be. In this tutorial my basket was made using the following measurements:

Pattern measurements for a fabric basket.

Using a water-soluble fabric pen start by drawing out your shape on the bosal foam and cut out. Then place it onto the back of the fabrics and draw around the foam then add a 1 cm seam allowance and cut out. You can now erase your pen lines.

Fabric and interlining for a fabric basket.

With right sides together pin and sew the fabrics together with a 1 cm seam, leaving an opening down one side. I left a 10 cm opening. Trim off the excess at the corners.

Sewing fabrics together.

Turn your fabrics right sides out through your opening.

Turning fabrics right side out.

Iron flat and turn in the seam allowance on the opening.

ironing fabrics flat

Place your foam inside the fabric bag. Make sure it’s all lying flat and then iron flat so that the fusible foam bonds with the fabric.

Inserting the fusible foam stabilizer.

Sew up your opening. Then sew the base of your basket. You can see that I sewed a 16.5 cm by 11.5 cm rectangle base.

Sewing the base of the basket.

Now pinch one of your corners and pin in place. Repeat for all four corners.

Pinning the corners for the basket.

Finally sew a seam at right angles from the top of the basket to the base to create the walls and corners.

Sewing the corners to make the fabric basket.

It’s that easy!

The finished fabric basket.

Now all you have to do is fill it and enjoy.

Decorative fabric basket filled with apricots.